El Zarape [606 W Fulton St, Garden City, KS - (620) 275-5401]is a beacon of traditional Mexican family cooking that stands out in the sea of otherwise dull eateries here in Garden City, KS. While Garden City may be famed for its massive grain productions or the 1959 Clutter Family Murder (the event that Truman Capote chose to turn into his nonfiction novel, In Cold Blood) it’s not well known (at least to this city slicker) for its outstanding food. But water is found in even the most arid of landscapes.
I happened to stumble upon the Garcia family’s realized dream my first night in Garden City as I prowled the streets trying to pick up the scent of something tasty to eat. The packed parking lot in an unassuming neighborhood paired with a sign proclaiming over 60 years of great food sucked me in. The absolutely sublime Chile Rellenos made sure I was going to return.
A zarape is a type of traditional Mexican weave that turns vibrant colors of wool into blankets and shaws that men wear over their shoulders and has become to the Mexican restaurant world what Garden has become to the American Chinese restaurant. I’ll leave it up to Mr Cedillo (a very friendly guy) and family tell their own story while I mention what a noticeable treat it is to be served by a team of attentive, soft spoken family members.
On top of history and good service stands the fare. The fried rice is light and fluffy, carnitas never dry, and as mentioned earlier the Rellenos are perfection. The salsa is smooth and plentiful (see the red topped Tupperware container in the photo, right of the Corona?) with the lime and cilantro peeking through the tomatoes. The tortilla chips are home made, the beer always cold, and the sopapillas are enormous (save room). So next time you’re in Garden City support a family that’s been doing things right for a long time by indulging your tastebuds in tradition.
